Barney & Loye


LoyeOur first big stop was Xi’an

BarneyWe saw all these statues and a whole army. Everything was different. People in uniforms and officers. Statues everywhere. Actually, they had color on them. They were in glass cases.

LoyeWe would get up in the morning and we would walk. We were going to be there for four days. We walked North the first day, South the second, East, and then West. We would just walk as far as we could during the day and then come back. As the Terracotta Soldiers had just begun to be unearthed, I think they only had one area out of this huge Quonset hut compound. It was covered at that time.

BarneyIt was about as big as a football field.

LoyeAnd they weren’t really working on very much. I don’t think they had much money. They knew they were going to preserve it and they knew it had been there all these years, so why rush? They just worked at it as they could.

Journal Entry

JournalXi’an – 1982 -On the train- “Watched uncivilized landscape. The lushness that everyone saw yesterday has turned to desert. Wall compounds, faggots drying on roofs, what looked to be Angola goats, musk ox, magpies, our first camel grazing, then herds that ran from the train. A dozen snow covered peaks to the south of us. Qilianshan mountain range.” – Loye

-At the hotel and travels on foot – “We pushed off the train at Xi’an, we rode public bus to our hotel, the grandest, renmin (the peoples hotel), old style soviet with Chinese flourishes. Hot water too. Shower flooded everything, but it was worth it. 4 room suite, 44 yuan. Excellent elegant dining hall, more tourists than we’ve seen. We arrange to see temples, mosques, and the Forest of Steles. We walked forever. Four days, so hot. I get sore throat, fever, but think I have it in check. Impossible to tell whether it’s heat or fever, exhausted each day. Public bus, all day trip.” – Loye

-Terracotta Soldiers- “Went to Qing dynasty, and those awesome terracotta warriors. Most eerie feeling walking into the hall. Quiet solemn death. They had been there for 238 years before Christ. Perhaps 6 thousand exquisite men, horses, real weapons, bronze and wooden carts. Made small sketch of heads coming out of clay.” – Loye

Drawings from Loye’s sketchbook: